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Hahn Racecraft
Stage II turbo system
for the non-turbo 2G Eclipse/Talon
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This is not an
in-depth installation guide (that's what the manuals are for), but
things I'd change, an overview of the installation process from personal experience,
as
well as a discussion of the more difficult parts of the
installation... This turbo system should only be installed by
someone who has extensive mechanical knowledge, ideally an ASE
certified mechanic.. |
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As
you can see, the piping and turbine housing in my kit are high-temp
coated. Hahn does not offer this coating... The parts come
powdercoated black... I decided to high temp coat everything for two
reasons... the heat barrier for both the air in the piping and to
protect my hood from the extreme heat of the turbine housing... also
I think the bright finish looks better than black on all the piping,
and makes it stand out more. |
| All
the components in this kit fit very well and I noticed that
everything is of very good quality except for the clamps for the
piping... they seem rather cheap and you must be careful when
tightening not to strip out the threading on them... I suggest
replacing the clamps with better ones. Luckily, as they
advertise, every single bolt clamp and hose necessary to bolt the
kit on is in the boxes... except one little thing... a bracket for
the fuel pressure regulator... be ready to fabricate one out of a
piece of metal strap or something similar. One other thing
about mounting the fuel pressure regulator (other than the fact that
it's one of the most time consuming parts of the install because
it's hard to get at what you need to unless you have tweezers for
hands) is that you have to move your cruise control servo, if you
have cruise... because I couldn't find a solid place for it, I have
it strapped with two heavy duty zip ties out of the way down below
the fuel pressure regulator... It's a slight design flaw that HRC
does not really explain how to deal with, and you are left to your
own devices on how to mount it. My remedy seems to be working
fine so far. |
| One
of the first steps in the installation process is to install the
bulkhead in the oil pan for the oil return from the turbo... this
was a surprisingly easy task (although a bit time consuming)... the
instructions were well laid out (as they were for most of the entire
installation)... The nice thing is that the oil pan gasket is rubber
reinforced with metal, so if you are careful it's totally
reusable. I found most of the project to move quite slowly
because at the time the kit was new and not many people had
installed it... |
(installed bulkhead in
oil pan)
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| so
I wanted to be very careful and thorough. Overall, I spent
about 30 hours on it and had a little bit of help from Phil Beers
and Craig Damaschi for some portions of it... most of the
installation really is a one man operation though. The next
major portion of the project took me about 10 hours. It was the
installation of the auxilliary fuel system, of which the whole fuel
pressure regulator ordeal was a part. The fuel supplement
manual for this portion of the project does and excellent job of
walking you through it... from wiring the relay to activate the aux.
fuel pump under boost, to running extra fuel lines to return unused
fuel from the new pressure regulator (which mounts AFTER the fuel
rail, unlike the stock regulator which is FAR before the fuel rail
-- stock configuration has the end of the fuel rail capped off) back
to the tank. |
(auxiliary pump
mounted on protective backing plate) |
Here
you can see the aux. in line fuel tank. Basically the stock
pump pumps out of the tank and this pump helps boost the pressure in
the line to keep enough fuel flowing under boost... Essentially,
this allows this low-boost kit to work without changing injectors,
etc... by the way, you should have a soldering iron handy for wiring
the fuel pump... I suggest soldered connections even though they
aren't absolutely necessary.
Once the fuel system is in place it's time to install the oil feed
line, which comes from the back of the block. Basically you
put in a T where the oil pressure sending unit goes, and this is
where the line attaches... |
| I
highly suggest the use of a lift for this as it's impossible to get
to it from the top and it's also quite a reach up inside from the
bottom. Buy teflon thread sealant in a tube for all line
fittings... DO NOT USE teflon tape... pieces of it can come off and
obstruct oil flow. Next is to start putting the manifold,
turbo, and piping together... easy stuff. |
| Here
are a few shots that show how it looks. The first shot to the right
shows the manifold installed and ready for the turbo to be attached.
Below is the turbo attached to the manifold, oil feed attached to
the turbo and lower IC pip attached and routed to the inter cooler.
Below right is a shot of what the intercooler looks like
installed... the upper IC comes of the intercooler and goes to the
manifold. |
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| Here
is one more shot with all the piping in place... After this you need
to run the hose for the boost gauge by cutting a little hole in the
steering column boot to go through the firewall... Hook up all
the vacuum lines in accordance with the manual. and complete the
installation of any exhuast system you may be attaching. It is
my suggestion that when you cut your factory downpipe and attach it
with the clamp to the downpipe section that comes with the kit...
once it's all in place and tight, I suggest taking it all off in one
piece and having it welded together otherwise it will leak
exhaust. It's another design flaw that HRC doesn't handle too
well, but it's pretty easy to remedy. |
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Finally,
the Thermal exhaust is hung and the kit is about ready for tuning
and it's first startup per specifications in the manual.
Please remember that this is only a little insight into my
experiences with this turbo system, it should provide you with a
couple of tips above and beyond what comes in the box, but it is in
no way intended to be your installation manual or guide.
PART
II : Performance and Problems since the installation
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